I grew up in and around big cities, and I wouldn't want to live anywhere else. My top cities to live in for the US are always something around SF, LA, and NYC. I feel like it takes a certain type of person to function in and love cities like, while at the same time not letting it turn you into an asshole. Anyway, I love Paris, for the same reason I love big cities. Always energetic, always something to do and see. The people? learn a few French words, and you'll be fine for the most part. Will you get the occasional jerk? sure, you'll get that no matter where you are, people just let themselves be colored a bit too much before visiting Paris themselves.
As much as I love Paris and metro areas, I think there's nothing better you can do in traveling than to get out. One of the best out trips I've ever taken was to the champagne region of France. So as not to get some other details muddled, I'll just throw out a few things that happened...you know...like getting engaged. Some other important things happened, I'm sure, but let's stick to the point. About an hour outside of Paris (quick and fun train ride), is the Champagne-Ardennes state capital of Reims. Don't even try to pronounce it, I guarantee you're saying it wrong. Reims is a great city billed for their adorable old style architecture and small village feel. Throw in a bunch of champagne houses and a cathedral or two, and you've got yourself a soiree (see what I did there?). We spent a lot of time in the beginning wandering around the quaint, but pain in the ass cobble-stone walkways, and of course got to the champagne drinking. Now the way we do wine tasting in the US, or at least in California, is that you basically pull up a map of wine country, throw a dart, and get down on some delicious wine. France does things differently. Pretty much everywhere you go to taste champagne, reservations are required. Not only are reservations often required, but you need to take a tour at every place you go. A single tour? great, but a tour at every tasting? I'm sorry, but if you've seen the champagne method once, you've seen it enough.
We were pretty dejected at the lack of free-flowing champagne (especially given the engagement). I expected to be swimming in lakes of it, literally. Fortunately, Reims isn't the only champagne capital, it's hotly contested with an even smaller village called Epernay (go ahead, you can try to pronounce that one, you'll be okay). Unfortunately, Epernay had the same deal. However, in the town center, there was a place called Banque du France. Banque meaning bar. France meaning champagne. Jackpot. It was an empty place with a jolly bartender with innumerable champagnes by the glass, bottle, or even to go. We did all three. After some time there, we had to catch the train back (since getting stranded there was a possibility). We got back to the hotel room feeling pretty damn smug about our day.
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| Not sinister enough? I didn't think so, either. |
A few days later, we decide it's time to ditch Paris again for some more champagne. I try not to repeat my steps when I travel like this, but I felt like we didn't have a choice. PLACE. TOO. GREAT. This time we just went straight to Epernay, as it had been crowned the true capital of champagne in our minds. We got there early enough to hit up a tour at Mercier, which of course started with a protruded tour of the caves, complete with a video talking about how great Mercier is. Finally ended in a tasting, and okay, you can brag, it's some of the best champagne I've ever had. BUT A LITTLE HUMILITY CAN GO A LONG WAY. After wandering the streets some more, we decided again to hit up a few more champagne houses to try our luck at finding a place that was just pouring wines. We found one that was known for doing slightly weird things with their champagnes while still appeasing the AOC. After, it was time to visit our favorite lonely bartender at the Banque. Another day of champagne trifecta and we were off to another champagne bar, where we met a group of drunk French and American people to help us celebrate yesterday's engagement.
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| I know what you're thinking, and yes I did try knocking someone into it. Preferably someone English. |
We didn't really pay attention to the time. Oops. We missed the last train from Epernay to Paris, so we figured our inly hope was to catch the 15m train to Reims, then Reims to Paris. We miss that train by a minute or two. We're stranded in Reims. Whatever, it's cool. Wait, no it's not, cue me freaking out. This did not fit into my perfectly laid out plans for the day, AND I DIDN'T EVEN HAVE MY BACK-UP DEODORANT ON ME (I always have deodorant with me, I'm scared to death of smelling bad). Indi, probably still drunk, had a much better attitude. "Ooohhh noooo, we're stranded in Champagne, France! Looks like we'll have to get a room and party all night!". Best travel mistake ever. We got a great and inexpensive room, and split a bottle of champagne on the main street watching the entire city slowly close around us until we were the only ones left on a dimly lit street.
It will always be one of my favorite memories. Wherever you go, always get out. Always make time to see what's beyond the ticker-tape that's peddled for tourists. I'm not saying that's all bad, but that it's the best way to get to know a countries culture and it's people. France in the city, and France in the country, like everyone else in the world, is night and day. Reims and Epernay had some of the happiest and most genuine people I've met, down to the two creepy guys who invited us to a (supposedly) giant house party once they saw that we were stranded. More than anything, champagne is pretty great.
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